Preparing for the Night: Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare

Preparing for the Night: Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare

Via Forbes.com

A reflection

I thought it would be funny and clever to finish this mini-series with the most honest three-word review I could ever give—It was great.

On second thought, I feel I should do more justice and give more credit to Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, Chef Cesar Ramirez, and the entire staff. My experience was every bit the world-class and unique affair I was expecting. From the top down, the whole meal was handled with care, love, and expertise. From the way they stagger their reservations, with half of the communal table starting 30 minutes ahead of the other half, to the way they stack their dishes, each getting placed on top of one another with a soft pad, presumably to keep the dishes from shifting and breaking during transport back to get cleaned, everything Chef’s Table does is special.

When I talked to Chef Ramirez, and yes, he was in residence, presiding over the whole meal, adding his flourish, plating, serving, cooking, running dishes to get washed, talking with the diners, and watching over the whole thing, I told him how special this experience was. He said, “That’s what we’re going for here.” Something akin to the best sushi bar you’ve ever been to, sitting right in front of the chef’s creating your dinner. Not far from the concept of what David Chang of Momofuku Ko does, but miles away in product. It was sole, and I’m not trying to make a fish pun. Sole in the fact that there is nothing else out there like it. That alone deserves a visit, but the food is worth everything and more.

I’m still swooning over the Japanese red snapper with puffed rice and black vinegar. This single bite may stand as the best and most well rounded taste I’ve had in my life. The preparation started with a liberal pouring of what I can only presume was oil on a flattop. What looked like the puffed rice was already on-top of the fish—it was on the surface for 10 seconds, tops. Once removed and wiped clean of everything but the crust, it was waved over a charcoal grill on the opposite side to give a light smoke. Cooked on one side, raw on the other—a perfect effort. The fish was passed off to Chef Ramirez where he put the most care into cutting the fish that I’ve seen since watching a master sushi chef take the scales off of a bluefin tuna with a two foot long sabre. He sliced through the first three quarters of the fish using an elegant, 14 inch fish knife from heel to tip, and at the last moment, gave the knife a pop from his opposite hand, severing the crispy crust with a crack, not a flake misplaced. Even the sound of the knife hitting the cutting board was magic. The dish tasted like the best burger I have ever eaten, which I had to tell Chef Ramirez directly after I put it in my mouth—I’m not sure if this was what he was going for, but there was just something about it that reminded me of it. I completely appreciated the freshness and quality of the fish… it just transcended anything resembling sushi. Maybe in a bind the only thing my mind could cling onto to get some continuity was, meat?

Without going into much more detail, there was the Uni, sea urchin roe, with black truffle on toast—exceptional. There was the fluke placed on a sheet drizzled with lemon and sprinkled with salt, a quick cure after a touch of cooking. I’ve never seen that technique, but it worked wonderfully. Our meat dish was the fattiest and most beautifully marbled Wagyu steak served with a picked daikon radish to cut the fat. The shiso sorbet was wonderful and the chocolate sphere filled with young strawberries and hot wild strawberry liqueur was beautiful as the sphere melted to reveal caramel ice cream, un-melted.

I didn’t take notes, aside from mental ones. I didn’t take a picture—they did ask from refraining in them. What I am left with, however, is a clear progression of dishes, the order possibly out of place in parts, and many of the preparations and ingredients butchered due to my lack of understanding or insight. For the sake of Chef’s Table and for what I’m sure Chef Ramirez would request, I am not going to share it; It won’t do the night justice. I can tell you that the theme for my meal, at least from my point of view, was fit. Everything fit perfectly. This is broad, I know, but from the dishes, to the contours of the fish and meat, the way a bite fit on the roof of one’s mouth, the senses and the way they were touched, the masterful service, and job-like manner everything was completed in… It all fit. From the aesthetic of the restaurant to the location in Brooklyn, the Chef, the wine, the appearance and taste of the food. It all fit. It’s the type of experience that gets me excited about food all over again—as if I needed a reason.

 

A birthday candle.

Chef Ramirez has a new fan… he had me from hello. I can’t wait to see where his career takes him, how Chef’s Table evolves. He’s on the top of the ladder right now, and everyone else is looking up at him.

- Adam from Tipped Mixology

Preparing for the Night: Research

Preparing for the Night: Research

Step one: Research

I was introduced to Chef’s Table at Brookyln Fare, like many, from an idol of mine Anthony Bourdain. In the last episode of No Reservations before switching to CNN and the newly named Part’s Unknown (essentially the same show) he concluded with a Brooklyn installment. That’s when I first saw this:

I was keeping notes on the episode as ideas for great places to go and try in the borough I love so much—Chef’s Table immediately made it to the top of that list. I usually do some research into the location, fare, chefs, history, etc., before dining at the restaurant, but this time was unique. A quick trip to their website will yield a cursory overview of the reservation method, dates, and dress code, but it doesn’t sport the usual façade of a major Michelin restaurant. That is when I realized Brooklyn Fare is a gourmet grocery store. This makes Chef’s Table even more unique that it already is—I love the idea of having an amazing restaurant nestled in (or around) a grocery store.

After a trip to their website came up pretty much empty I started searching for a bio on Chef César Ramirez, the chef at residence at Chef’s Table. He worked at Bouley, another great restaurant in New York City with one Michelin star, and also at Bar Blanc in the West Village. According to NY Times, he had a following before coming to Chef’s Table. He is Mexican, raised in Chicago, cooking French-Japanese fusion. This mix of culture in his cooking, aside from him being a self-taught chef, might be part of the appeal of his cooking. I also found he doesn’t allow note-taking or pictures in his restaurants, which I hate doing anyway and I don’t disagree with his rules.

The restaurant has 18 seats, arranged as a 3-sided square around an open kitchen where Chef Ramirez and his crew will work. This is where my knowledge caps and I usually travel to websites like Yelp, Eater, and let’s face it, Wikipedia. I read about an intimate foodie atmosphere with knowledgeable staff. (notably Michele Smith, former Captain and Sommolier at Per Se) I also read countless references to Alinie, (Grant Achatz) Daniel, (Daniel Boulud) Le Bernardin, (Eric Ripert) and Per Se (Thomas Keller)—that’s an amazing group to be compared to, and reviewers are constantly saying it is better! Remember some of my previous attempts at explaining how to eat at a three Michelin star restaurant? Dialing up the douche factor and honing in on your inner critic… the great restaurants live up to every expectation. The great restaurants don’t make me feel bad for expecting the best. From their amazing ingredients to their fantastically composed and beautiful dishes, I’m not worried.

Thanks Faisal Sultan! He risked it so I don't have to.

The uni on brioche with black truffle looks divine—I hope it’s on the menu. Remember how I said Chef Ramirez doesn’t allow pictures? Well, I guess he let a few slide. 

- Adam from Tipped Mixology